The history has changed throughout the years! Today, the woman has dresses above their ankles, knees and even mid-thighs. The President's Lady started out with dresses to the floor. Now you woudn´t recognize them as being one of the First Ladies. The ideas about female beauty are constantly changing and have been for 23,000 years.
The history of the 'ideal' woman and its implications on women who attempt to conform has been a subject of fascination throughout various art forms and fashion trends. On International Women's Day, we delve into the ever-evolving concept of this societal construct, recognizing its complex nature and the detrimental effects it has had on women throughout different eras.
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| Ladies With Hoop! |
The idealized fashionable body in the 18th and 19th centuries was characterized by a more curvaceous and voluptuous figure, with women wearing various under-structures to enhance their lower body volume. This promotion of a specific body type within the fashion industry resulted in the utilization of hoops, cages, and padding to achieve the desired silhouette.
In 1890 ´s
The new feminine ideal, known as the "Gibson Girl," was characterized by tall, slim-waisted yet voluptuous women as depicted in Charles Dana Gibson's illustrations for mainstream magazines during the 1890s. Now it seems the ¨ fashion ¨ will do anything to make a change!
Going into the early 20th century, the representation of women's physical forms in art was constantly transforming. This evolution can be observed in the oil paintings of French artist Henri Matisse, who depicted slender, graceful bodies. Conversely, Spanish artist Pablo Picasso's portrayals showcased voluptuous, twisted nude figures in vibrant and intricate detail.
In the 20th century, there was a noticeable shift towards a more youthful and physically fit physique.
The cause of this shift remains somewhat unclear, but the fascination with slender bodies would persist well into modern times.
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| Gustav Klimt |
100 years ago, the world's most radical nudes were painted by an expressionist. The paintings were revolutionary, pushing the boundaries of what was considered acceptable in art at the time. The artist's use of color and form was unique, and their subjects were often controversial. The paintings were a reflection of the artist's own beliefs and experiences, and they have become a lasting testament to the power of art to challenge and inspire. Forty-three years prior to the debut of Playboy magazine, a young artist who had dropped out of art school at the age of 20 (and was a student of the renowned Art Nouveau painter Gustav Klimt) presented to the public some of the most provocative nude artworks of the 20th century. Egon Schiele: The Radical Nude is an exhibition currently showcased at London's Courtauld Gallery. This exhibition delves into the technically superb and sexually explicit portrayals of the human body by the Austrian Expressionist painter, Egon Schiele.
The content from the 1920s to the 1950s
The desire for a slimmer figure in the Western world during the 1920s was reflected in the emergence of flappers.
As magazines began featuring slender women's bodies in the mid-1920s, there was a simultaneous rise in the prevalence of eating disorders among young women, according to studies. A research paper published in the Journal of Communication in 1997 highlighted that the highest reported cases of disordered eating occurred during the 1920s and 1980s, which were the eras when the 'ideal woman' had the thinnest physique in US history.
An analysis conducted in 1986 revealed that the bust-to-waist ratios of women portrayed in Vogue and Ladies Home Journal magazines decreased by approximately 60% between 1901 and 1925. The researchers behind the study stated that these findings provided empirical evidence to support the hypothesis that mass media play a significant role in promoting the slim standard of bodily attractiveness among women, potentially contributing to the increased prevalence of eating disorders.
However, by the late 1940s, the ratio started to increase again, with both magazines experiencing a one-third growth in the bust-to-waist ratios of featured women. This shift coincided with the growing popularity of fuller body types represented by pinup models and actresses like Marilyn Monroe. Furthermore, the first issue of Playboy magazine was published in 1953. The ratio dropped again. By the late 1960's, the ratio had returned to approximately the same level it was in 1920's, in the study found.
The content from the 1960s-70s, which was previously considered a fallacy, has now been revealed to be completely false.
The concept of the 1960s and '70s appeared to symbolize a departure from the previous era of corsets and pinup models. Simultaneously, the commencement of the "second wave" of the women's rights movement occurred. In 1960, the US Food and Drug Administration granted approval for the birth control pill. Betty Friedan, a proponent for women's rights, published her influential book "The Feminine Mystique" in 1963. Moreover, the establishment of the National Organization for Women took place in the United States in 1966. Despite these advancements, there is a prevailing misconception that women achieved complete bodily freedom during this time, which is completely baseless. Although women were no longer constrained by corsets, societal pressures and media messaging continued to dictate an idealized body image centered around youth and thinness. Instead of relying on foundation garments, women turned to diet and exercise to conform to this so-called ideal. The notion persisted that modifying one's body was necessary to attain true fashionability. Significantly, there was an increase in the number of severe anorexia nervosa cases necessitating hospitalization.
The rise of supermodels during the 1980s and 1990s brought about a change in societal perceptions of body types. While thin women continued to dominate the mainstream media, there was an increasing emphasis on strong, athletic, and toned bodies. Esteemed supermodels such as Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell perfectly embodied this ideal.
Although thinness still held value, there was also a growing focus on overall health and fitness. However, by the 1990s, the trend swung back towards a preference for skinny and waif-like figures. "The waif" herself, Kate Moss, became an iconic figure during this time, particularly through her Calvin Klein advertisements.
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| Twiggy |
Simultaneously, the World Health Organization began highlighting the alarming rise of global obesity rates. Obesity, defined by an excess of body fat, carries various health risks, including diabetes, heart disease, and certain cancers. The prevalence of obesity dramatically increased in the 1990s.
This era also witnessed a distinct division in how bodies were portrayed in the media. Fashion imagery celebrated extreme thinness, whereas larger bodies were often stigmatized as "unhealthy" in discussions surrounding obesity. Consequently, society began to view and judge their own bodies through a binary lens.
These societal changes undoubtedly had psychological consequences, particularly regarding body image.
In 2016, fashion designer Christian Siriano made a breakthrough in promoting body diversity by featuring five plus-size models in his show at New York Fashion Week. This move was accompanied by toy manufacturing company Mattel introducing a new line of Barbie dolls that showcased different body types, including curvy shapes.
Last year, for the first time in its history, reality show Project Runway took a significant step towards inclusivity by including models ranging from size 0 to 22.
Meanwhile, there is growing concern among health experts regarding the influence of the "selfie" and social media culture on body image. The rise of platforms like Instagram and YouTube has led to the idealization of everyday people's bodies, not just supermodels.
Unfortunately, when individuals have a different body type from what society portrays as ideal, it can negatively impact their self-esteem. Parents play an important role in helping children develop positive body images. They can do this by avoiding negative body talk, both towards themselves and others, and instead emphasizing the abilities of their own bodies, such as strength, flexibility, resilience, and adaptability. It is also beneficial for parents to seek out media that promotes positive body images and avoids reinforcing gender stereotypes.
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